Top construction for hosiery



12,,1936. J. A. GOODMAN Q 2,040,736 TOP CONSTRUCTION FOR HOSIERY I IFiled May 4, 1933 v V may,

%f I v V H IH 1562mm. 1.0

XIZQ/ Patented May .12, race 2,940,736 'ror ooNs'raUe'rIoN roa Ho'srERYJacob A. Goodman, Indianapolis, Ind. Application May a, 1932, Serial No.669,403

6 Claims. (011. 66-172) This invention relates to hosiery and-hasparticular reference to an improved top construction possessing variousqualities and characteristics which render the same of great utility.The invention is primarily applicable to hosiery such as mens sockswhichterminates below the knee and which is diflicult to support in properposition on the leg. I have discovered that by constructing the upperportion of the hose in the particular manner hereafter described thesame may be made to stay in proper position. The invention isparticularly suited to the typeof article generally designated as"self-supporting,

within which category are included socks and I knee-length stockings.

In hosiery of the type mentioned, it has always been conventional so faras I am aware to provide knitted tops of heavy fabric, usually ribbed,and in some cases comprising two plies. Such a top, because of itsweight, tends to work down the leg. Further, because of the relativeinelasticity resulting from its heavy texture and the substantialstretch which isordinarily necessary in order to make it conform to thediameter or the larger portion of the leg which it overlies, the

, same tends to gradually creep down the leg as the muscles are flexedto a portion of the leg of smaller diameter. I

p The present invention constitutes a substantial departure from known.practices in that instead of using heavy fabric in the top of the hose alight weight-and relatively elastic fabric is provided. As hereafter.more fully explained, the top is constructed of relatively light weightyarn and in such manner that the same will notexert j anycircumferential tension on the leg or manifest any appreciable tendencyto fall down of its own weight. v

The invention will be described as applied to mens socks, but it will beunderstood that the same is equally applicable to other types of hosieryas men, women and children, whichcover the enlarged calf area of the legbut terminate at some point below the knee. As a matter of terminology Ihave found it convenient in setting forth the application of theinvention to use the terms fsock, knee-length stocking and shortlengthstocking to designate generally the various types of hosiery inconnection /with which the invention may be employed.

In the drawing:

Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic representation of a sock having a top providedat its end with a short supporting band, the same being generallysimilar to conventional socks except as to features' explained in thespecification;

Fig. 2 is a view similar to Fig. 4 of a sock of the self-supporting typemade in accordance with the presentinvention Fig. 3 is a sectionalfragmentary view, the same being a detailed illustration of one form ofedge band which may be utilized in the sock shown in Figs. 1 and 2; and,

Fig. 4 is a view similar to Fig. 3, showing a further type of edge bandwhich may be used.

It is immaterial whether the hose to which the invention is to beapplied is circular knit or of fullfashioned type, since my topconstruction may be made on either kind of machine. -As indicated, thecharacteristic feature of the present invention is the provision of topfabric which is showing the article on the light in weight, readilystretchable and of elastic character, and of such low resiliency as toexert little if any circumferential tension on the portion of the legwhich it covers. The leg, or body, fabric may be of either heavy orlight texture, and may be composed of any of the usual materials, suchas silk, artificial silk, wool or cotton. If the leg fabric is of lightweight the top fabric may be composed of the same thread and generallysimilar in character thereto. Unless, however, the body fabric is moreor less sheer, I find it desirable to use lighter fabric in the topportion than inthe leg portion.

Referring now to Fig. 1, I have therein indicated a sock comprising abody or leg lower portion l0 knit in the usual manner with a closetexture and having a normal amount of inherent iii The relativeresponding generally in its length to the extent of the thicker calfarea. It will be evident, however, that the lineof demarkation in Fig. 1between the top fabric and the body fabric should not be taken asdefinitely indicating the proportional lengths of the leg and topfabric. It may be stated, in any event, that the length of the topshould be an appreciable factor in the total length of the article.

In knitting 'thetop section II, single ply fabric comprising arelatively lightweight yarn is used.

. the fabric loosely,

' leg fabric is knit on a The lighter the thread and the fabric thebetter will be the results. The limit of lightness of the thread will bedetermined only by the durability which it is desired to impart to thetop fabric. Various kinds of yarns may be used such as silk, mercerizedcotton and rayon. The heavier the thread used, the greater will be theweight of the fabric. From tests conducted, it now appears to me thatsatisfactory results may be obtained by using yarn as heavy as l2-threadsilk and number 60/2 mercerized cotton, or their equivalents. As justindicated, the limit of lightness is determined solely by the matter ofdurability, but I may .say that relatively light silk of 5 or 6 threadsand equivalent weights of cotton, such as 120 Egyptian lisle, appearpractical.- Where lighter weights of cotton are used it is preferable touse the imported long staple article so that the thread will have thenecessary tensile strength.

In making the top the thread is knit under relatively low tension so asto increase the elasticity of the fabric and thus enable the same to beeasily stretched. While it is desirable to knit it is preferable as amatter of appearance and shape to avoid sleaziness, and to this end Ifind it well to employ relatively fine gauge knitting machines. Ofcourse, where the fine the case of silk socks, the top will be knit onthe same machine as the leg fabric and integrally therewith, it beingpreferable to decrease-the tension on the thread feed during the courseof knitting of the top. As pointed out above, the same thread may beused in the top as in the leg fabric when the latter is constituted ofthe lighter weight yarns, or again, it may be lighter thread. Byknitting the top portion with an appreciably lower tension the same willbe of substantially looser texture and more stretchable than the lowerleg fabric whic as normally, will be closely knit and resilient tosnugly fit the thinner part of the .leg below the enlarged calf area.

Any knit fabric, whether light or heavy, possesses a certain degree ofelasticity and stretch. The fabric also, however, is resilient in thatwhen stretched there is a tendency of the fabricyto contract'to normalsize. The resiliency is greater the heavier the fabric and the coarserthe yarn.

Also the more closely formed the knitted loops of the fabric the lesswill be the ability of the fabric to stretch and the greater .will beits resiliency. In order to avoid circumferential tension which tendsto' cause a stocking to work down the tapering parts of the leg I deemit necessary to make the top in such manner that the resiliency of thefabric is very low and insufficient to cause any appreciable tendency ofthe top to contract when on the leg. That is to 'say, I desire the topto be elastic in the sense that it will readily yield or stretch to.loosely conform to the diameter of the leg but without any substantialtendency to recoil to its normal diameter. In some respects, thereforethe top fabric is similar in character to, sleazy fabric. By mak-' ingthe top fabric lightweight androf loose texture I can get the desiredstretch and at the same time the resiliency will be at a minimum andless than that of the normally resilient lower leg portion.

At the upper open e d of the loosely'fitting top or upper leg portion llof the article is a supporting band I! engageable with the leg above thepoint of largest diameter but at a point below the knee. Such band isboth elastic. and resilient in character, snugly fitting the leg andgauge machine, as in creep down the tapering rendering the sock orstocking self-supporting. The band may be of double ply and in the formof a turned welt or constitute reinforced single ply fabric. band may berelatively narrow. This is desirable in order to keep down weight andfor leg comfort. Also, because the upper leg portion H is looselyfitting and of light weight, thesame does not readily tend to eitherfall or work down the calf area and a narrow band gives adequatesupport.

By knitting the top fabric In with low tension, the same will tend tohave a diameter somewhat larger than the leg fabric besides being morestretchable due to the looser texture resulting from the low tension.This is quite desirable, since the top fabric overlies a larger part of.the leg than the leg fabric, and the less stretch that is necessary inthe top the less will be the circumferential tension when the sock isworn which tends to cause the fabric to creep down the leg. If the legfabric is knit to a relatively small diameter on a relatively fewneedles, it might beconsidered desirable to use'a larger number ofneedles in knitting at least the main portion of the top fabric. Underany circumstances it will be understood that it is desirable As will benoted inthe drawing the normal 1 to take whatever expedients arenecessary in tended to shrink under dyeing and washing, it

is obvious that the diameter of the top would eventually become smallandsuch asto' require considerable stretch in order to obtain legdiameter. For this reason, it is deemed important to utilize yarn whichis substantially fixed in length before knitting. I deem it advisable,therefore, to knit the top of yarn which has been preshrunk. Such yarnsare in themselves well known, and since the production thereof forms nopart of the present invention, a description of preshrinking processesappears unnecessary.

The top fabric may'beplain knit as indicated in Fig. 1. It will beunderstood, however, that I do not confine myself to any particular typeof knitting so long as the top fabric is made to incorporate thephysical characteristics herein set forth which will provide a lightweight loosely conventional and avoids circumferential tension,

it possesses a great advantage over the usual heavy reinforced or ribbedtop construction. Self-supporting socks and stockings are in themselveswell known but have been generally unsuccessful.. Sofar as]: am awaresuch articles have always been made with a relatiyely heavy or ribbedtop which exerts considerable circumferential tension such as causesthe-same to part of the human leg and the top because of its own weightalso tends to fall down. Because of these 'difliculties trouble has beenexperienced in making articles which would stay up without incorporatingsome sort of supporting band which exerted such a high degree ofcircumferential tension as to be injurious to the leg and retard thecirculation of blood therein; I

The sock of Fig. 2, which I now regard as the preferred embodiment of myinvention, includes a top portion H, a supporting band I5 and a body orleg portion IS. The top will be of the same character as the top il inFig. 1, comprising light weight single ply and elastic fabric,preferably plain knit of light preshrunk yarn, and formed integrallywith the body portion l6. While not entirely necessary, the supportingband IE will desirably be located at the extreme upper end of the top.

It will be obvious to those familiar with the self-supporting type, ofhosiery that the supporting band may take a variety of forms andeitherbe formed integrally with the top or fastened thereto. It shouldbe pointed out, however, that because of the character of my top theband need exert only a slight circumferential tension on the leg.That-is to say, a sock embodying my invention tends naturally to stay upon the leg and there is no necessity of making the band so heavy andtight as to bind the leg and'retard circulation as is the case withknown self-supporting hosiery, but it will be understood that because ofits supporting function the band must be more resilient than the looselyfitting top portion to the upper edge of which it is secured.

As a matter of preference and with the view of making a sock which isneatand generally similar in appearance to hosiery which does not embodyself-supporting features, I knit the resilient band l5 integrally withthe top. With the-development of a satisfactory light rubber yarnI findthat the band may be made of such which tends to cling to the leg andhas sufllcient resiliency for use as a supporting band with the specialtop fabric. A combination of both rubber and wool maybe resorted to ifdesired.

Since the tension to be'exerted by the elastic band'can be quite low thesame need not be heavy or wide. It may be 'double ply as indicated at Main Fig; 3 and formed during thecourse-of knitting in a manner similar tothat employed in making turned -welts, or it may be embodied. as ,asingle plystrip'l5b as shown ,in Fig. 4. Other forms of bands willreadily suggest themselves to those skilled in the art, so it will beunderstood that the ones described are given only as particularlydesirable types.

Instead of using plain knit fabric in the top,

of the sock, the embodiment of Fig. 3 may be employed as a self-supporting s'ock with the elastic band I5 of any desired type inassociation with the open mesh top iii.

For best results in self-supporting half hose, the top and body portionsshould be proportioned as generally shown in Fig. 2. The body or lowerleg portion IE will extend up over the thinner lower, part of the leg tothe point where the diameter of the 'leg begins to increase at the calf.The light elastic top fabric will begin at this point so that there willbeno'appreciable circumferential tension due to the larger size of theleg therebeyond. As heretofore pointed out; .it is desirable to knit,the top looser than the leg fabric and if the leg is knit toarelatively small diameter it will-also be advisable to knit the top withan increased diameter. "To enable the supporting band to operate to'bestadvantage the top should be of such length as to extend above the pointof largest diameter in the calf Again, I find that the band so that theband I5 will encircle the smaller portion of the leg upwardly of thecalf.

The present invention for the reasons set forth above enables aself-supporting hose to be constructed far superior both in comfort andsupporting qualities to known articles of such type. Because it does notcling to or exert any appreciable pressure or binding tension on the legit is far more comfortable. Because of its light texture the same iscool and therefore specially desirable in summer. Again, because of itslight weight and' inherent elasticity the top fabric facilitates thepulling on and removing of the sock over the heel of the wearer. Besidesthese .and other advantages, the top is superior to known articles inthe use of yarn of fixed size which prevents the top from shrinking indiameter on dyeing or washing and for this reason insures a proper litat all times without binding.-

I claim: 1. A self-supporting short lengtlr knitted stocking including atight knit fabric leg portion of such length as to terminate short ofthe enlarged calf area of the human leg, an adjoining fabric top portionadapted to overlie said enlarged calf area, and a resilient supportinggarter band secured to the upper end of the top portion so as to gripthe leg at a point above the enlarged calf area, said top portioncomprising a single ply of light weight relatively sheer andunreinforced fabric fabricated throughout its circumference with a looseand uniform knitted texture and composed throughout of light weightyarn,

2. A self-supporting sock including a normal closely knit resilientlower leg portion adapted to snugly fit the thinner lowerpart of the legbelow the calf, an adjoining ribless, single ply, knitted top portionadapted to extend up over the enlarged calf area and adapted to looselyfit such area, saidtop portion throughout its circumference being morestretchable and less springy or resilient than the lower leg portion,and being composed of loose textured fabric capable of sub-' knee-lengthhaving-a resilient garter band at its upper-end engageable-with the legabove the area of greatest diameter, and including a closely knit lowerleg portion adapted to snugly fit the thinner part of the leg below theenlarged calf area, and an unreinforced upper loosely fitting calfportion knit to a larger diameter than the lower leg portionof lightweight yarn, said upper portion being of light easily stretchabletexture less resilient -than the,lower leg portion and conformable tothe contour of the calf area. withdutexerting any appreciablecircumferential binding tension thereon.

leg portion, and a resilient garter band at the open end of the upperportion engageable with the leg above the area of largest diameter.

5. A knitted sock or knee-length stocking including a lower leg portionadapted to snugly fit the thinner part of the leg'below the enlargedcalf area, an adjoining substantially non-shrinkable upper portion knitto a larger diameter than the lower leg portion adapted to loosely fitthe enlarged calf area, said upper portion Comprising thin single plyfabric of light weight preshrunk yarn and being of looser knittedtexture, more stretchable and less resilient than the lower leg fabric,and a resilient garter band at the open end of the upper portionengageable with the leg above the area of greatest diameter.

6. A knitted sock or knee-length stocking having a resilient garter bandat its upper end engageable with the leg above the area of largestdiameter, and including a closely knit silk fabric lower leg portionadapted to snugly fit the thinner part of the leg below the enlargedcalf area, and an adjoining upper loosely fitting calf portion knit to alarger diameter and of looser more stretchable and less resilientknitted texture than the lower leg portion and comprising thin singleply fabric of light weight cotton yarn.

JACOB A. GOODMAN.

